Advice on how to prune climbing plants

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For a correct pruning of climbing plants there are several precautions to be taken into account, such as the age of the plant, or how long it has been transplanted, the shape you want to give it, and naturally the characteristics of the species, which will also affect the right period to proceed.
What are the right tools? Shears for branches and thin branches, loppers for thick branches, protective gloves, stable and sturdy ladder.
The freshly transplanted creepers require moderate pruning. The cutting and fixing of the branches to the support are used to stimulate the production of new jets and to create a well-formed plant. If the plant has to develop on a single main stem, choose the most robust and cut the others.
Adult climbing plants require maintenance pruning every year, for optimal growth and flowering and to clean up from the dry.
The vines that bloom on the stems of the previous year are pruned at the end of the flowering, cutting off the branches of about a third, just above a bud to stimulate the formation of new branches. Winter jasmine and rincospermo or fake jasmine are part of this group.
The creepers that bloom on the new branches are pruned at the end of winter. The bougainvillea, the bignonia, the mandevillea, the passionflower, the climbing solanum (jasmine from Chile) are part of this group. In the case of dense or intricate branches, space is given to the development of the most vigorous jets, removing the weak ones. Periodic cleaning favors the formation of jets that carry flower buds.
Evergreen creepers, like ivy, are pruned in spring or at the end of summer.
The golden rules for routine pruning: cut off the malformed or dry branches. To rejuvenate an aged specimen, cut the oldest branches to 50 cm from the ground. Honeysuckle and wisteria are pruned after flowering. Creepers that emit decorative berries (eg some types of roses) are pruned after flowering, leaving some of the branches on which the berries are ripening.

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